À force de monter en gamme, qui va encore habiller le plus grand nombre ?

Between ultra-fast fashion and premiumization, French fashion reveals a vast landscape: one of accessible, desirable, and sophisticated fashion.

by Grégoire TERRIER (Director of Marketing & Collections – DUTEXDOR Group)

29 %.

In the first seven months of 2026, Shein, Temu, and AliExpress together accounted for 29% of online clothing purchases in France, by volume. A year earlier, their combined share was 19%.

Across all sales channels, these three platforms now account for 8% of total sales volume. And Shein has become the second-largest player in the French apparel market by volume, behind Kiabi and ahead of Vinted. 

At the same time, the French market remains under pressure. As of the end of July 2026, sales of apparel and textiles fell another 1.5% in value. Brick-and-mortar stores saw a 3.1% decline, while online sales rose 2.6%. Compared to 2019, the market remains 10.8% lower. 

It would be easy to draw a simplistic conclusion: the French just want to buy things for less.

Reality is more interesting.

The French aren't just looking for the lowest price. They're looking for value.

54% of French people say they are concerned about their purchasing power. Price therefore remains, of course, a key factor in their purchasing decisions. At the same time, however, Kantar has observed a growing emphasis on country of origin and brand commitments.

Consumers, therefore, do not necessarily demand the cheapest possible product. They look for a price they consider consistent with what is being offered to them. 

The ranking of the most-purchased brands in France is revealing. Kiabi tops the list, ahead of Primark and Decathlon. Mass-market brands such as Tissaia also continue to account for a significant share of sales volume. 

Accessibility is therefore not a niche market.

It is at the heart of French consumer spending.

And that in no way prevents consumers from expecting style, a distinct identity, quality, or greater accountability.

Meanwhile, some brands are moving upmarket

Given the pressure from ultra-low-cost platforms, the reaction of part of the market is understandable.

Since it seems impossible to beat Shein or Temu at their own game, why not target a higher-end consumer?

Greater perceived value. Higher prices. A more selective distribution network. More attractive stores. A more premium marketing strategy.

In fact, McKinsey identifies this as one of the major trends of 2026: brands ranging from the value segment to affordable luxury are seeking to position themselves at a higher level, in particular to differentiate themselves from ultra-low-cost competitors. 

The strategy could work perfectly well.

The problem begins when it becomes the solution for an entire market.

Because if everyone with a history, expertise, identity, or strong brand gradually raises their prices,who will be left to offer a high-quality, desirable alternative to consumers who have 20, 30, or 40 euros to spend?

Perhaps the real risk is abandoning accessibility

This, in my opinion, is where one of the great paradoxes of today's fashion world lies.

On the one hand, consumers are being more selective about their spending and looking for value.

On the other hand, some of the long-established brands are seeking to raise their prices and limit their distribution.

In between the two, a vast area risks being left vacant.

And if brands abandon this market, others will take their place.

The success of ultra-low-cost platforms does not prove that French consumers are no longer interested in quality or brands.

At the very least, it shows thatthey haven't given up on dressing well even when they're on a tight budget.

In 2025, ADEME also noted that 24% of French people reported shopping on ultra-fast fashion platforms, but also that 42% shopped for secondhand items. These are two extremely different models, but both reflect a strong desire for value and affordability. 

"Accessible" should never mean "mediocre."

That's probably where the industry's jargon has trapped us.

"Entry-level."

"Mass-market."

"Mass retail."

These terms are still too often associated with the idea of a simplified, generic, or characterless product.

At the DUTEXDOR Group, we advocate exactly the opposite.

A consumer on a limited budget deserves nothing less than great design.

It deserves no less attention to detail.

It deserves no less in terms of perceived quality.

And he shouldn't have to choose between a product that has become unaffordable and one purchased solely because it is extremely cheap.

The real challenge, then, is to createfashion that is accessible yet rich: rich in identity, detail, quality, history, and intention.

And, at the same time, it is placing greater demands on traceability, compliance, sourcing, and measuring its impact.

This is precisely the area we are seeking to advance at the DUTEXDOR Group: an integrated purchasing department, audits, traceability, materials management, compliance, and environmental labeling are among the topics we are incorporating into this initiative. 

A premium brand can also be affordable

There remains one very common fear among brands: that of diluting their image by moving into the mass market.

It is legitimate.

But in my opinion, it is based on a misunderstanding.

Being present in multiple distribution channels does not mean selling exactly the same product everywhere.

A brand can develop a more premium image through its own channels—by refining its brand image, collaborations, retail stores, or main collections—while simultaneously offering specific collections aimed at a broader audience.

Provided that we never produce a lower-quality version of the premium collection.

A mass-market collection must be conceived as a collection in its own right: with its own pricing, its own products, and its own financial balance, but with the same respect for the brand’s fundamental principles.

That is precisely what a well-designed licensing strategy enables.

And that’s why I don’t believe that being sold in mass-market retailers prevents a brand from moving upmarket.

What damages a brand isn't its accessibility. It's inconsistency.

The midfield has perhaps never been more strategic

A twist of fate in the market: just as many are seeking to move upmarket, McKinsey estimates that the mid-market is now the fastest-growing segment in the global fashion industry and is replacing luxury as the sector’s primary source of value. 

So perhaps the choice facing brands isn't simply:

Premium or mass-market?

It could be:

How can you become more desirable without ceasing to be approachable?

It's a much more complex issue.

But also much more interesting.

At the DUTEXDOR Group, this is the path we have chosen: to champion a mass market that makes no apologies for being accessible, yet refuses to compromise on product quality and respect for brands.

Because affordability shouldn't be the exclusive domain of ultra-fast fashion.

And because fashion must also continue to appeal to as many people as possible.